Slow down, it's Laos

I’m very glad of my choice to move on to Laos, I arrived in Savannakhet on Sunday evening after a fairly long bus ride from Hue in Vietnam. As soon as we passed the Vietnamese border, the sky started clearing, the temperature rising, and the roads cleared as well – there are just much fewer people in Laos.

I loved it straight away. I got to a nice guesthouse recommended in the guide, joined by Tatsuro, a cool Japanese guy at the beginning of a 2 year round the world trip. The guesthouse is pretty close to the Mekong so we just had time to drop our bags and go enjoy the sunset with a BeerLao with the locals at one the food & drink stalls set up there in the evenings. Funny to think I had just crossed the whole width of both Vietnam and Laos in a day to find myself right across the river from Thailand.

I like Savannakhet, there isn’t really much to do but I guess that’s just what I wanted after being on the move all the time since I left Kunming. Yesterday was full sun and over 35 degrees – perfect to just walk around in the sun and have a nap in the afternoon, followed by beer & sunset time.

I rented a motorbike today to go out for a wander in the countryside, saw the closeby Budddhist stupa of That Ing Hang which apparently is an important pilgrimage site in February when thousands of people visit. I also went to a few villages out on dirt tracks, as well as a couple of lakes, there to irrigate the rice paddies in the dry season such as now. Lovely weather, a few clouds showed up so it was hot buy I didn’t get burned in the sun.

Considering I can’t drive (don’t have my license) and hadn’t been on a scooter in about 15 years this was pretty adventurous for me and glad I did it. That said, going on a loop biking for several days on dirt tracks feels slightly out of reach just now – I’ll probably need some more practice. Next time I think I might just go back to normal cycling, it’s easier to enjoy the scenery like that as well.

I rounded the day off with a traditional Lao massage. Lots of stretching and pressure points – good stuff. I’m now back at the iLounge Cafe for a drink and dinner. Good company, cold drinks, good Thai & Lao food and free wifi!

Tomorrow I’ll be moving South to Pakse, then on to Champasak to see the Pre-Angkorian ruins of Wat Phou. After that I’ll be heading to Si Phan Don, or 4,000 Islands, where the Mekong stretches out to a width of about 14km before Cambodia.

Not sure I’ll get a lot of Internet access down there, most places don’t have electricity apparently. A few days on a hammock watching the Mekong flow by sounds great though!

About the author

Willem was born in New York, grew up in Paris, lived in London and Asia for several years before moving to Chicago in 2017. He is an award winning brand & marketing strategist, having worked with some of the largest creative advertising agencies and most valuable consumer brands globally. Willem enjoys tabletop games, skiing, scuba-diving, traveling, eating, and lengthy conversations with friends.

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